Top Dog:
Tap into the quietly sophisticated scene at Top Flr, and you won’t be disappointed
By Katie Kelly Bell
Published 03.09.2008
What to make of the intriguing Top Flr? It’s a unique place to be sure. A converted two-story space with a bar/lounge on the main floor and exceptional dining on the, yes, you guessed it, top floor. The top is indeed where it’s at. The eclectic interior is a rather odd mixture of color with two white walls, one painted with a robust paisley-like pattern and yet two others (toward the back) are shaded in dark hues. White tables with black trim are outfitted with mod space-age black-and-white chairs. A corner of windows adds some natural light to the space, but, overall, things are striving for an urban SoHo art gallery feel. A captivating range of music is piped in while conversation buzzes all around. The word is out: Top Flr has captured the attention of hipsters who seek a premium dining experience without all the fuss and gloss of fancier restaurants (read: no valet parking here).
Co-owner and former DJ Jeff Myers hustles around in his wool cap and long hair looking more like a roadie for a rock band than a proprietor of a restaurant. I hesitate to call it upscale (too snooty) or even stylish (too forced). Top Flr is more a mixture of urban savvy and what appears to be a keen appreciation for well-prepared food and unique wines. The menu is a marvelous cross section of things we love: gourmet pizzas, fresh pasta, seafood and a good ol’ steak.
Chef Mike Shorn leans on traditional ideas for cuisine but deftly adds his flair to keep things interesting. An oven roasted salmon is fresh and zippy with a dollop of citrus tapenade while the pan roasted ginger crusted tofu with pomegranate miso dressing in altogether exotic (not sure I’m in love with it, but it works).
The wine list has pedigree, and I must tip my hat to the crew at Top Flr for managing to offer a spectrum of interesting wines without getting top heavy on chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon. These guys know what they’re doing. Appetizers such as the lamb skewers with daikon taziki and cauliflower couscous or the mussels with an aromatic coconut lime broth are worth investigating. The portions are ample and make for easy sharing, but you will not want to share the supple free-form ravioli with plump gigantic shrimp and a medley of zucchini, corn, grape tomatoes and avocado—a dazzling garlicky delight. Dusted with parsley, the presentation is lovely. A fire-roasted pork tenderloin with a sherry thyme Vidalia jus is a tender bite with a savory edge to it, but the grilled hangar steak with shallot demi glace is a true meat-lovers dish. And at a mere $12, it’s one of the best deals in town.
We are so richly satisfied we almost decide against dessert, which would have been a travesty. A selection of dessert wines, cognacs and whiskeys demonstrate once again that Top Flr has a stealth sophistication that tends to pop up and surprise you throughout the meal. Consider the three unique truffle offerings (crafted with only fair-trade chocolate). Each wickedly dark Colombian chocolate orb is infused with the likes of fennel, caramel rice and green tea: These are easily worthy of any five-star dining experience. That may be what sets Top Flr apart, the nuanced upscale touches (boutique wine list, savory menu, gorgeous truffles) set amidst a relaxed, urban dining scene (park your own car, convivial noise level). It’s a combination that makes Top Flr quite obviously top notch.